This must be Burbank
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When I was a kid, I wanted to time travel. As an adult, I discovered going back in time is as easy as a trip to Burbank, the 17.3-square-mile city-that-feels-like-a-neighborhood located just behind the Hollywood sign.
Of course, there are limitations. It’s not possible to wind the clock back a full century and a half to the city’s early development (though you can come pretty close with a visit to the Burbank Historical Society’s Gordon R. Howard Museum complex). Burbank was founded in 1887, after a sheep-ranching dentist from Maine named David Burbank (not, as some mistakenly think, Luther Burbank, the potato botanist from Massachusetts) laid the groundwork for the city that bears his name by selling most of the 9,000 acres he’d bought in the area to the Providencia Land, Water and Development Co. Nor is it possible to time-tunnel quite as far back as the city’s date of official incorporation — July 8, 1911.
Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now.
But you can certainly get within a few decades of both those formative events. And you can twist the dial to 1929 — the year Warner Bros., having bought a majority interest in First National Pictures a year before, began making movies in the city — simply by driving along Olive Avenue and gazing upon the studio’s towering, putty-colored walls. Want to land in 1940? Just cruise down Buena Vista Street and eyeball the Walt Disney Studios complex, which has its roots in the Kem Weber-designed Streamline Moderne building funded (along with the purchase of a 51-acre plot of Burbank land) by the success of “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs,” and completed in January 1940. The company’s headquarters have been here — growing building by building over the decades — ever since. (The theme park Uncle Walt once envisioned nearby would end up in Anaheim.)
Burbank is where you’ll find a restaurant that’s been slinging chili since 1946; the oldest remaining Bob’s Big Boy, which dates to 1949 (the same year the then-3-year-old Smoke House Restaurant moved to its current location); and a coffee shop that’s been serving up hot turkey sandwiches since 1959. It’s as if the passage of time has slowed to a crawl, resulting in a modern cityscape that keeps the early to mid-20th century alive, thriving and center stage.
Since that yesteryear-is-still-here feeling is a big part of what makes this city unique, that’s a through line for many of our must-visits. And, though there are plenty of places on the list that haven’t notched the half-century mark, lots of them lean into the retro-nostalgia vibe of the area — like a neighborhood watering hole that specializes in IPAs and vegan fare, an outdoor roller-skating rink, a vintage store that’s practically a time portal of its own and a pirate-themed tiki bar worth plundering over and over again. So, with apologies to Steely Dan, get ready to start reelin’ in the years.
What's included in this guide
Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we may include gems that linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.
Our journalists independently visited every spot recommended in this guide. We do not accept free meals or experiences. What L.A. neighborhood should we check out next? Send ideas to [email protected].


Have everything for breakfast at Bea Bea's
“I come here just for the lemon ricotta pancakes,” my table neighbor confessed, gesturing toward a stack of bright yellow, whipped-cream-topped flapjacks in front of her. Although the recommendation arrived too late to sway my order, I didn’t leave unsatiated thanks to the bounty that landed in front of me a few minutes later. One plate was all but eclipsed by the Oh Em Gee — generous slabs of Hawaiian bread given the French toast treatment and served with a ramekin of cinnamon honey butter. The other bore something called the Volcano Scramble — a spicy melange of scrambled eggs, chicken tequila sausage, jalapeños and two kinds of cheese (cheddar and mozzarella) served with tomatillo sauce and counterbalanced in both flavor and texture by a plate-filling sprawl of crispy hash browns.
Factor in Bea Bea’s range of vegan and gluten-free options (including many of the pancake, waffles and crepe dishes) and nonbreakfast fare (think salads, sandwiches and burgers) and you’d be hard-pressed to find a surer way for anyone to start their day with a full belly — and a sense of optimism.

Scratch your collectibles itch at Blast From the Past
The rest of the inventory features a galaxy of sci-fi stuff (“Lost in Space,” “Star Trek” and especially “Star Wars” items, the crown jewel of which is a rare 1977 Darth Vader figurine priced at $4,999.99), comic-book collectibles (a Ma Kent figurine here, a life-size bust of the Fantastic Four’s Thing there, as well as bins and shelves of actual comic books), movie posters and lots (and I mean lots and lots) of action figures. Looking for a vintage copy of Us Weekly, a toad-shaped handbag, a “Harry Potter” robe or a 6-foot-tall $2,000 plastic dragon? Then set your phasers on stun, beam down to this retro-kitsch planet and browse to your heart’s content.

Get an up-closer look at how movie magic is made on the Warner Bros. Studio Tour
One of the things the tour does well (or at least better than other local studio tours I’ve taken) is explain how the various parts of the property are designed to be used over and over again for different productions. There’s the leafy, jungle-like backlot set, which was built for the 1956 film “Santiago” and has since appeared in scores of movies and TV shows. A few minutes later, you pass a nondescript building that from one angle can serve as an airport terminal; from another, it’s a hospital emergency room. A nearby porch-wrapped clapboard house did double duty in “Gilmore Girls” and “Pretty Little Liars.” And would you believe that Kermit the Frog sang “The Rainbow Connection” (in 1979’s “The Muppet Movie”) in the same man-made lagoon that George Clooney’s Doug Ross rescues a kid from in an “ER” episode?
There are photo ops galore, including a stop at the “Friends” fountain (relocated from Warner Ranch), a re-created Central Perk coffee shop and a green-screen demonstration that has you flying a magic broom a la Harry Potter. Speaking of the boy wizard, there’s a cupboard under the stairs to peruse, a chance to mix potions and the opportunity to have the sorting hat assign you a house. There are also some serious superhero costumes in the mix, including Lynda Carter’s “Wonder Woman” suit, Marlon Brando’s Jor-El outfit and all six modern-era big-screen batsuits (from Michael Keaton to Robert Pattinson) lined up in a row. All that — and Jack Warner’s address book, with hand-scrawled entries for Cecil B. DeMille and Salvador Dalí — make this tour a slice of movie magic worth seeing up close.

Find the best of bel paese at Monte Carlo Italian Market & Deli
Looking for marinated artichoke hearts? It’s got seven brands to choose from. In the mood for some jarred giardiniera? How about 10 options? Same with the acres of pasta shapes (fusilli, rigatoni, bucatini and spaghetti as far as the eye can see), oceans of oils (not just olive; there’s also hazelnut, walnut, avocado and pistachio oils — some in plastic gallon jugs like antifreeze or rectangular metal cans like industrial solvent) and enough varieties of foil-packed and tinned espresso to caffeinate the Roman Empire. Did I mention the wines, the cheeses, the meats (prosciutto, capicola, soppressata, mortadella and more) or the two dozen flavors of gelato and sorbet that can be scooped out of the case in front of you?
In short, if it’s an Italian foodstuff and you can’t find it here (or have it special-ordered for you, which they’ll happily do), it probably can’t be gotten. And if that’s not the truth, may my nose grow like one of those top-shelf Pinocchios.

Time-warp your way through a bowl of red at Chili John's
Smoky, dense and dark, it’s old-school chili at its purest; the original recipe is nothing more than beef, olive oil and spices. The result packs a punch of heat Trojan-horsed in a cumin base note and is solid enough to eat with a fork. The sign outside says “as you like it,” and they mean it: The menu guides you through choosing your own chili adventure with two sizes (12 or 16 ounces); four types of chili (original spicy beef, mild beef, chicken or vegetarian); bases that include spaghetti, beans, rice or some combination thereof; and topping choices (served on the side) that include shredded cheese, sour cream, chopped onions and oyster crackers. I opted for — and can’t recommend enough — the 12-ounce portion of spicy beef chili served over spaghetti with a ramekin of shredded cheese and lidded dish of chopped onions. As I swirled the last strands of spaghetti through the orange slick of spicy oil at the bottom of my bowl, I struggled to recall a lunch as unfussy and soul-satisfying as the one I’d just finished. Until I turned to the slice of lemon icebox pie — recommended by my long-tenured counter mates — which brought a cool tang of closure to the whole affair.

Horse around at the Los Angeles Equestrian Center
If you’re equine-curious, check out the center’s online calendar to find a horsey event (there’s usually at least one or two happening each month) that piques your interest, then canter over and bask in the SoCal sunlight while the horses and riders do their thing. If you’re hungry, there’s grub (and beer) available at the on-site Rein Cafe, which features umbrella-covered seating and fire pits to cluster around. If you’re more in the mood for a rodeo-meets-retail experience, amble over to Glenroy’s Equestrian Gifts, where you’ll find all manner of themed wares including riding boots and helmets, western-style belts, horse-print handbags, socks emblazoned with horseshoe designs and several shelves of Breyer collectible toy horses.
Don’t be surprised if you see the four-legged ones beyond the center’s borders as well; the horse-friendly Rancho Equestrian District isn’t far, and there’s a nearby Baskin-Robbins ice cream shop with a drive-through window that has doled out scoops and cones to customers on horseback.

Explore the city's collective attic at the Burbank Historical Society Museum
In the main building, you’ll find a history of the city’s founding and development, including a bordering-on-creepy mannequin exhibit depicting the city’s namesake, dentist David Burbank, plying his craft. There are also displays devoted to some of the more famous businesses to call Burbank home (among them, Lockheed Aircraft Co., NBC Studios and the Walt Disney Co., which, according to one exhibit, originally envisioned building its first theme park near its headquarters here before ultimately opting for Anaheim); and donated collections of everything from model trains to advertising signage that add color to the cityscape of the past.
Among the items you’ll be able to examine up close are gowns once worn by Debbie Reynolds (who was Miss Burbank 1948), a bold plaid jacket sported by Johnny Carson on “The Tonight Show,” the city’s first residential electricity meter (installed on Sept. 25, 1913, in the home of resident Orlando C. Lane) and early maps and paintings depicting the area. You’ll find furniture and home furnishings from the city’s past as well as a hodgepodge of technology (like an antique telephone switchboard juxtaposed with a brightly colored Kermit the Frog landline phone), neon restaurant signs and a metal plaque that once marked the 60-acre ranch property owned by turn-of-the-20th century world heavyweight boxing champion James J. Jeffries.
Pro tip: Although the museum makes for a delightful unguided exploration, asking one of the volunteer docents to give you a tour will help provide some context to what can otherwise be an overwhelming wander. Also, don’t leave without checking out the approximately 900-square-foot Victorian Eastlake-style Mentzer House, which fronts Olive Avenue. Originally built by the Providencia Land, Water and Development Co. in 1887 (and moved twice since), the home has been restored to give visitors the authentic vibe of the long-gone era.

Find your Gatsby finery (and much more) at Playclothes Vintage
Looking for a ’70s-era Navajo silver and turquoise cuff bracelet? Check in one of the many glass jewelry cases near the register. Need a fancy and bejeweled Shriner’s fez? You’ll find two in the men’s clothing corner along with aloha shirts, wide-lapel jackets, fedoras, neckties of varying widths, cigarette cases and the creepiest lion costume you’ll ever lay eyes on (which can be yours for $75). Women’s apparel ranges from hippie-chic flare-legged trousers and fur-trimmed leather ponchos to gold sequined bodysuits and racks full of fringe-y flapper dresses. In the mood for a showgirl-worthy feathered headdress? Look for the rainbow of plumes sprouting atop mannequin heads.
When I inquired about the unusually robust selection of showgirl garb and flapper ’fits on display, the lass behind the register said it was something the store had earned a reputation for. “A lot of people come here to get things for costume parties or ‘The Great Gatsby’ theme parties,” she told me. “And we also do costume rentals.”
Even if you wander the crammed quarters of the former flooring and crown molding showroom (make sure to gaze both up and down during your visit) and leave without buying a single thing (which seems unlikely), your visit will have been a worthwhile adventure in vintage spelunking.

Munch burgers alongside classic cars at the oldest Bob’s Big Boy
The answer is both. Burbank’s Bob’s Big Boy, open since 1949, is the oldest surviving Bob’s, and it draws legions with its free Classic Car Show every Friday night. The car people gather around the restaurant’s 70-foot neon sign — a landmark of midcentury design — with gleaming chrome, rumbling pipes and upholstery as smooth as a baby’s bottom.
From 4 to 10 p.m. each Friday, the restaurant suspends its one-hour parking limit so that these gearheads can show off their rides and check out the competition. Inside, you can get the Original Big Boy combo ($14.99) — or anything else you desire off the menu — plus all sorts of merch from 7 a.m. to midnight daily. If you show up on a Friday at 9 p.m., as I did when I visited, you may face an hourlong wait, despite seating for 166. Alas, Bob’s carhop service is no more.
But you might see a ’57 Chevy Bel Air. Or a Russian Volga. Or a DeLorean. Some owners like to leave their hoods up, including more than a few silver-haired car guys who were teenagers in the ’60s.
Bonus tip: Jay Leno has been a frequent visitor. Director David Lynch came here daily for years in the 1970s and always ordered a chocolate milkshake. And when the Beatles showed up one day in 1965, they sat in the last booth on the right.

Tuck into a two-meal Thanksgiving sandwich at the Tallyrand Restaurant
On the day I popped by to post up in one of the half-dozen counter seats facing the kitchen (there are also dining rooms on each side as well as a dimly lit bar area that practically begs for a bout of day drinking), I sat next to a regular who lives four blocks away and comes in three times a week. He introduced himself as Scott and shared his secret. “[Ask for] a to-go box right when you order [your sandwich],” Scott advised, “and put half of it in the box before you start eating, and you’ll have a whole second meal.” As a proud member of the clean plate club, I dismissed Scott’s suggestion — until I was halfway through my feast and decided to take the rest home. Not because I was full, but because I didn’t want my open-faced exercise in Thanksgiving nostalgia to end. When I asked for my clamshell to-go box, the waitress nodded knowingly. “Would you like to take an extra cup of cranberry sauce with you?” she asked. I absolutely did.
Later that night, as I ate the second half of my lunch for dinner, I gave thanks for the restaurant’s longevity — and the wise counsel of Scott. Follow his lead, and you’ll be giving thanks too.

Roller skate alfresco at L.A. Kings Burbank Sports Center
In addition to regularly scheduled skate school sessions (six weeks of Sunday mornings for $120 or $25 per session for drop-ins) and Wednesday-night workshops ($20 for a group lesson, admission included), there’s a cheap skate night ($7 admission, $5 skate rental from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. on Mondays), adult skate night with guest DJs spinning tunes (5:30 to 8 p.m. Sundays, $10 entry, $7 skate rental) and a once-a-month themed happening dubbed Skate Oddity that encourages costumes and includes DJs, food vendors and photo opportunities (past themes have included “Beetlejuice,” the band the Cure and David Bowie’s birthday).
It was the last of those offerings that first attracted a pair of 30-something women I chatted with while they laced up their skates on a midwinter Wednesday evening. “It’s less stuffy than skating at the Moonlight [Rollerway],” one told me. “And the vibe of the Skate Oddity event is really fun.” While the Moonlight in nearby Glendale may be bigger in size, at $25 admission it’ll cost you more than twice as much to get your roll on. Not to mention, you wouldn’t be able to perfect your moonwalk under the moon itself.

Jockey for potluck MVP with a stop by World Empanadas
Being delicious, portable and easily identifiable without having to be hacked open make these empanadas a crowd-pleaser that’ll easily win you potluck MVP. So does the fact that the offerings include five vegetarian and four vegan options. On a recent visit, I picked up two of the vegan bestsellers — mushroom and cashew cheese (MC) and quinoa and lentil (QL). They were as toothsome as their meat-filled counterparts.

Embark on a quest for pub-quiz glory at the Roguelike Tavern
Drop in on a Tuesday night for a pub quiz that caters to the fantasy-film-loving, D&D-playing clientele (and is mercifully light on the sports questions). The six-round game starts with 10 questions keyed off a video clip, followed by visual (identifying band logos or famous magicians), audible (horror movie dialogue) and multi-answer (most-hated Halloween candy) rounds. Expect a lively, spirited-to-raucous field of around a dozen outlandishly named teams. The winning team gets $50 toward a bar tab on a future visit, and a round of same-night mystery shots goes to the team with the funniest name. The only hitch? Teams are limited to six players each — so choose your quest(ion) crew wisely.
Pro tip: Order the salty, crispy, fried pickle chips, which will put the soggy versions of the dish you’ve had before to shame.

Sip a craft IPA and nosh on vegan 'whings' at Tony's Darts Away
But where this spot really hits the bull’s-eye is in the beer offerings — not surprising, since the namesake Tony is beer impresario and co-founder of Golden Road Brewery Tony Yanow. The mantra on the sign outside is “All craft. All draught. All California,” and the menu is divided into four sections: IPA (a robust selection of India pale ales), not IPA (a lager here, a witbier or a schwarzbier there), not beer (cider, a few wines, a hard seltzer) and N/A (a troika of nonalcoholic beverages). There’s also some seriously satisfying vegan fare on the food menu (I say this as an avowed carnivore) alongside the nonvegan bar bites, like the vegan whings — faintly chicken-wing-shaped cutlets of not-meat battered and fried and served alongside buffalo, ranch and barbecue sauce. There’s a vegan version of disco fries in a mushroom gravy as well as vegan/nonvegan sausage and hot dog options. It all feels — and tastes — so good. No flugelhorn required.

Sup like Sinatra and Clooney at the Smoke House Restaurant
But you can’t fill your belly with boldfaced names, so once you’ve finished eyeballing the famous faces in the foyer, adjourn to the clubby cavernous interior, slide into a banquette and order like the star you know you are. The cheesy garlic bread is a must — nearly a loaf’s worth of French bread glazed over with a toasted cheese, butter and garlic topcoat that’s an unnatural shade of orange and seems to have been applied with a spray-tan gun. Add an ice-cold martini or equally chilly iceberg wedge (or both) as a culinary counterweight. You can’t go wrong with a steak — the stampede of prime rib, filet mignon and rib-eyes coming out of the kitchen attests to that — but if you’re inclined to gild the celebrity lily just a little bit more, consider supping the way Ol’ Blue Eyes did by ordering the steak Sinatra. It’s a plate of linguine topped with a melange of beef filet chunks sauteed with tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, garlic, mushrooms and red wine. Ring-a-ding-ding! Dinner is served.

Chart a course for the Broken Compass Tiki
The decor combines classic tiki (thatching, bamboo) and nautical (sailcloth and rigging, a bar shaped like a ship’s prow) and throws in a couple of prop parrots to boot. (Sharp-eyed tikiphiles will recognize the latter as a nod to Disneyland’s Enchanted Tiki Room.) The drink menu includes well-crafted takes on traditional tiki drinks (the bartender explained that their house-made ingredients dial back the sugar a bit, which will be welcome news for anyone who finds most umbrella drinks a bit on the cloying side), a super-curated selection of beer and wine and a couple of ever-changing options including a cocktail of the month — that’s the one served up in the Spam cans — that gives each bartender a chance at steering (make that stirring) the ship.
And, unlike most tiki bars, which go all-in on drinks and decor but drop the ball when it comes to the food, the menu here is full of tempting eats, including a peanut-sauced Thai take on chicken wings and quite possibly the tastiest tots on the seven seas thanks to eight seasoning and 18 dipping-sauce options that can be mixed and matched to please any palate. (If you’re feeling overwhelmed, you can’t go wrong with the salt and vinegar seasoning and an order of the house-made miso aioli dipping sauce.)
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