Designer Peter Do is leaving his position as creative director of Helmut Lang after less than two years. Do was appointed to helm the fashion house in 2023 and presented his first collection for the brand at New York Fashion Week for spring 2024, receiving mixed reviews. “Do is going to have to find his own point of contact with Lang and then express that spirit in a contemporary way, without respect for his legacy. Otherwise, we might as well go to Uniqlo,” our fashion critic, Cathy Horyn, wrote. Although Do’s second collection for the house was better received, Helmut Lang did not present at New York Fashion Week this past September.
“I want to express my gratitude to my Helmut Lang team who have been integral in supporting my vision,” Do said in a statement. “It’s been an incredible journey to be tasked to carry on the legacy of Helmut Lang.”
Do got his start with his label in 2018. In 2021, he staged his first runway show at New York Fashion Week, receiving recognition and praise for his minimalist designs and sharp tailoring. Do, who grew up just north of Ho Chi Minh City in Biên Hòa, Vietnam would allude to his heritage in his clothes. In the press notes for his first show, Do recalled his father making pho, the traditional Vietnamese soup, and reducing the broth to “an essence.” He suggested that his clothes, often paired back, underwent a similar reduction. Do has since collaborated with larger household brands like Banana Republic, which generated much excitement from his fan base.
Whether his eponymous label, for which he’s since moved his presentations to Paris, will continue, is a question.
“I want to express my deepest gratitude to Peter for his exceptional creative leadership and vision and wish him continued success in his future endeavors,” Kazumi Yanai, the chairman of Helmut Lang, said.